Requirements, answers to what you're most likely to ask — and a straight line to a real person if something's still wrong.
The Valentine One Gen2 (V1R2) only. It is not compatible with other brands, and the original Valentine One is not supported.
V1Journey is built specifically for the Valentine One Gen2, which has Bluetooth LE built in. It talks to the detector over Valentine Research's ESP protocol — the same protocol the V1connection app uses — so nothing else is required between your phone and the V1.
It does not work with Escort, Uniden, Radenso, Cobra, or any other brand. Those detectors don't speak ESP, so there is nothing for the app to connect to.
No. The Gen2 has Bluetooth LE built in, and V1Journey connects to it directly.
Nothing goes between your phone and the detector. Turn the V1 on, open V1Journey, and pair — the same way you'd pair any Bluetooth device.
You may still want the V1connection app installed separately, because a couple of V1 hardware settings (Euro Mode, for one) can only be changed there. V1Journey will tell you when that's the case.
V4.1038 or newer is recommended. Older firmware still works — the app falls back to the older behavior and shows a dismissible advisory rather than blocking anything.
Nothing is disabled on older firmware. You'll see a notice reading "V1 Firmware Update Available" the first time you connect; you can dismiss it and it stays dismissed.
Two behaviors do need V4.1039 or newer:
Mostly, but not entirely — keep V1connection installed. A few V1 hardware settings can only be changed there, Euro Mode being the one that comes up most.
V1Journey can read your V1's configuration and can change a couple of things directly: it can switch you to Logic Mode, and it can turn off the Bogey-Lock tone. Both have a Fix button in the app.
Anything else — Euro Mode, band enablement, profiles — still goes through Valentine Research's V1connection app. Where that's the case, V1Journey shows the advisory under a heading that says "Requires V1connection app" and tells you the exact steps.
No. V1Journey is an independent third-party app, not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by Valentine Research, Inc.
It's built on Valentine Research's own published ESP protocol, under their ESP License Agreement and their MIT-licensed Android ESP library — the same documented interface any third-party companion app uses. But it's an independent product.
Valentine One, V1, V1connection and Savvy are trademarks of Valentine Research, Inc.
The app itself has no regional restrictions — navigation is Apple Maps everywhere, and the V1 connection works wherever your detector does. Whether you may use a detector is a separate question that depends on your country.
Nothing in the app changes behavior by country, with one exception: the automatic K-band widening for MRCD speed cameras is tied to five specific US areas. Everywhere else the K filter uses whatever window you've set.
The V1 Gen2 Europe variant is recognized and reported correctly.
Before using a detector abroad, check the local law — several European countries prohibit possession as well as use, and penalties can include confiscation.
Radar detector use is prohibited in passenger vehicles in Virginia and Washington, D.C., and in commercial motor vehicles anywhere in the US under 49 CFR § 392.71. Rules elsewhere vary and change — check your own jurisdiction.
V1Journey is a companion app for a detector you already own. Whether you may use that detector is a question about your vehicle and your jurisdiction, not about the app.
What we can state:
The app does not change its behavior based on where you are, and does not warn you when you cross into a jurisdiction where detectors are restricted. Drivers are responsible for obeying all traffic laws and for the safe operation of their vehicle.
Power on the V1, open V1Journey, and the pairing sheet appears by itself the first time. Tap your detector when it shows up. After that it reconnects on its own every drive.
On first launch the app opens the "Connect Your V1" sheet automatically. It scans, shows what it finds, and connects when you tap it. You'll see "Establishing ESP communication…" briefly, then "Your V1 is connected and streaming alerts," along with your detector's model and firmware version.
You do not pair the V1 in iOS Settings → Bluetooth. It's a Bluetooth LE device and the app connects to it directly. If you're looking for it in the iOS Bluetooth list, that's why it isn't there.
After the first time, the app reconnects automatically when you start a drive. To connect again by hand, go to Settings → Scan for V1.
Logic Mode is the only mode that tells the app about an alert before the V1 sounds, which is what makes filtering possible at all. The app detects your mode and offers to change it for you.
The three modes behave differently from the app's point of view:
If you're in another mode, V1Journey shows a "Set V1 to Logic Mode" advisory with a Fix button that changes it for you. You'll find it under Settings → your V1 → V1 Setup.
Work through these in order: the V1 is powered on, Bluetooth is on, V1Journey has Bluetooth permission, and the V1 isn't already connected to another phone or to the V1connection app.
Things to check, most common first:
If the V1 was working before and stopped, try Settings → your V1 → Forget Device, then scan again. Re-pairing or a firmware flash can give the detector a new Bluetooth identity, and the old one no longer matches.
The app connected but the V1 didn't answer its setup questions in time. It retries by itself; if it gives up, tap Scan Again. A power cycle of the V1 almost always clears it.
After connecting, V1Journey asks the detector three things — its version, its user settings, and to start streaming alerts. If those don't come back within about four seconds, it retries twice and then stops, so you get a working button instead of a spinner that never ends.
What clears it:
If it happens every single time on a particular detector, send a bug report from Settings → Report a Problem. The diagnostics block includes the firmware version and connection state, which is what's needed to tell what's going on.
Settings → your V1 → Forget Device removes the pairing permanently. A plain Disconnect only ends the current session; the app reconnects next launch.
Two different things:
Use Forget Device if you've changed detectors, or if a V1 that used to connect has stopped being found — re-pairing and firmware updates can change the detector's Bluetooth identity.
One phone at a time per V1, but the app remembers as many detectors as you like and connects to whichever one it finds first.
A V1 Gen2 holds one Bluetooth connection at a time, so two phones can't both be connected to the same detector at once. Whichever one connects first has it.
The other direction works well: if you have a detector in each car, pair both. The app reconnects to whichever one is powered up.
Worth knowing if you share a car: settings like "Mute V1 by Default" live on your phone, not on the detector. They have no effect on anyone else who drives with a different phone.
It's a V1 hardware setting that fires a tone every time the bogey count changes — even while muted. In traffic it can go off constantly. V1Journey offers to turn it off for you.
This is one of the two V1 settings the app can change directly. Go to Settings → your V1 → V1 Setup and tap Fix on "Disable Bogey-Lock Tone (after muting)."
It's a common cause of "I muted everything and it's still making noise" — because the tone isn't an alert, it's a count-change notification, and muting doesn't suppress it.
A laser alert cannot be un-muted by any app, on any firmware. That carve-out is written into Valentine Research's ESP specification and isn't something V1Journey can change.
There are two sides to this, and they point in opposite directions, which is why it confuses people.
Laser always sounds when it shouldn't be muted. The V1's own logic modes never auto-quiet Ka or laser, and V1Journey's automatic rules follow the same principle: auto-mute, auto-snooze and the K-band filter never touch Ka or laser. A laser alert is treated as always worth hearing.
Laser can't be brought back once it's muted. The ESP protocol's un-mute request explicitly won't clear a laser alert. So if something did mute during a laser hit, the app has no way to reverse it.
That's low-speed muting, on by default below about 22 mph. It's band-agnostic by design — matching the real Savvy — so it silences laser at low speed too. You can change the threshold or turn it off.
Settings → Savvy · Low-Speed Mute has a toggle and a speed threshold slider (roughly 6 to 50 mph, defaulting to about 22). Below that speed the V1 stays quiet; above it, everything comes back.
It deliberately doesn't make exceptions by band. The hardware Savvy accessory behaves the same way, and the reasoning is the same: a parking garage, a drive-through or a crawl through town produces falses on every band, and carve-outs would defeat the point.
There's a small buffer around the threshold so stop-and-go traffic doesn't flicker it on and off.
It quiets the V1 the moment a new X- or K-band alert appears, so you see it without hearing it, then brings the audio back on its own. Default is 10 seconds; Ka and laser are never touched. Pro feature.
Note the direction: it mutes immediately on alert onset and un-mutes after the window — it is not a delay before muting. The window is adjustable from 1 to 30 seconds in Settings → Auto-Mute.
It only applies while every live alert is X- or K-band. If a Ka or laser alert is in the table, auto-mute is cancelled and you hear it — same logic the V1's own modes use.
A new signal restarts the window.
A K- or X-band signal that stays present for the whole snooze window (30 seconds by default) is treated as a false and silenced until it goes away. Pro feature.
The reasoning is that a real source you're driving toward gets stronger and then passes. A signal that just sits there at a steady level for half a minute is a door opener, a sign, or a shop's motion sensor.
Once a signal has earned a snooze, it's silenced again straight away if it comes back within a couple of minutes — so a parking lot you circle doesn't re-earn the alert every lap.
Two protections: Ka, laser and anything the V1 flags as priority are never snoozed, and any snoozed signal that surges in strength is un-snoozed immediately. A signal getting stronger is an approaching source, not a falser.
The window is adjustable from 10 to 60 seconds.
It silences K-band signals that fall outside the frequency window real police K radar uses — mostly other cars' blind-spot monitors. Default window is 24.025–24.250 GHz. Pro feature.
Blind-spot monitoring and collision-avoidance systems in modern cars transmit on K band, but at frequencies outside the narrow range police radar actually uses. Filtering by frequency rather than by strength is what lets the app drop them without dropping real K radar.
Both edges of the window are adjustable in Settings → K-Band Filter.
It's conservative on purpose: the mute only applies when every live alert is K band and all of them are outside the window. Any Ka, X or laser alert, or any K signal inside the window, and nothing is filtered.
There's also an automatic widening for MRCD speed camera areas — see What is MRCD, and what does the MRCD advisory mean?.
It keeps the V1 silent for as long as your phone is connected to it, so you rely on V1Journey's screen and spoken alerts instead of the detector's own audio. Off by default.
It holds for the whole drive and reapplies automatically the next time you connect. Changing it takes effect immediately, mid-drive included.
Two things worth knowing:
This is the setting for people who want one voice in the car rather than two.
Bars are signal strength on the same 0–6 scale as the V1's six LEDs, arrows are direction, the number is the frequency in GHz, and the band chip is X, K, Ku, Ka or Laser.
Each simultaneous alert gets its own row: a direction arrow (ahead, side, behind or a combination), a band chip, the frequency, and a strength meter. The card is tinted by the highest-priority band present, so a Ka alert in the mix is obvious at a glance.
The strength scale mirrors the detector's own six LEDs, with a different curve per band since the bands don't behave alike. Laser is the exception — it isn't LED-metered by the V1 and always reports full strength.
The bogey count comes from the V1's own front-panel counter where possible, rather than the app's own tally, so the two always agree.
Frequency deduplication. Same-band signals within 50 MHz of each other are treated as one source, since that's usually one transmitter the V1 is seeing twice. The threshold is adjustable, or you can turn it off.
A single radar source often shows up as more than one bogey as the reading drifts. Rolling those into one entry gives you one map pin and one lockout entry instead of three near-identical ones.
Two related settings, both in Settings:
Set deduplication to 0 if you'd rather see everything the detector reports separately.
Tap the audio button on the map to cycle four modes: Navigation + Radar Alerts, Navigation Voice Only, Radar Alerts Only, or All Voice Off. Default is both while navigating, alerts only when idle.
Spoken alerts are phrased by direction rather than band — "Radar ahead," "Radar behind you," "Radar on your side" — with one exception: laser is called out as laser, because it's the one where the band itself changes what you'd do.
Ka, laser and priority alerts interrupt turn guidance and are never cut off themselves. X and K wait their turn. If an alert starts while it's suppressed and the suppression lifts while the signal is still live, it gets spoken then rather than being lost.
If the voice sounds robotic, the app will nudge you once toward Settings → Accessibility → Spoken Content → Voices on iOS, where a Premium voice download makes a large difference. That's an iOS setting, not an app one.
MRCD is a speed camera type that transmits on K-band frequencies below the normal US range. In the five US areas where they're known to operate, V1Journey widens its K-band filter automatically and tells you that your V1 also needs Euro Mode for full detection.
The five areas are New York City, Washington DC / Maryland, Chicago, Windsor Heights (Iowa) and New Orleans. When you enter one, two things happen:
The advisory exists because widening the app's filter isn't sufficient on its own: the V1's internal frequency sweep also has to reach down there, and that's Euro Mode. V1Journey can't change that setting — it's in the V1connection app, under your profile → Special → Euro Mode. The advisory clears by itself when you leave the area or when Euro Mode is on.
The automatic widening can be turned off in Settings → K-Band Filter.
You drove into one of the five MRCD speed-camera areas, and the app widened the K-band window automatically. It restores your own window when you leave.
If your K-band filter pickers read 23.900 and 24.300 instead of the values you set, that's the automatic MRCD adjustment — see What is MRCD, and what does the MRCD advisory mean?. Your original window is saved and comes back when you leave the area. If you edit the values while you're inside the zone, your edit wins and isn't overwritten on the way out.
You can turn the automatic adjustment off entirely with "Auto-widen for MRCD zones" in Settings → K-Band Filter.
Almost always location permission. Anything that depends on speed or position fails safe — it alerts rather than muting — when GPS is unavailable. Check that V1Journey has Always location access, not "While Using."
Low-speed muting, lockout zone matching and corridor recording all need a current GPS fix. When the app doesn't have one, it deliberately does nothing rather than guessing: an unknown speed must never silence a potentially real alert. You'll see "No GPS" on the speed chip when this is happening.
The most common cause is permission. V1Journey asks to upgrade to Always location at the moment your V1 first connects — not during onboarding — so it's easy to have missed or declined. If you granted only "While Using" and iOS wakes the app in the background when your detector connects, no GPS fixes arrive at all, and low-speed muting fails open for the whole drive.
Fix it at iOS Settings → Privacy & Security → Location Services → V1Journey → Always.
Other causes: a genuinely poor GPS environment (a parking structure), or the first 30 seconds after launch before a first fix arrives.
Tap the lockout button that appears over the map during an alert. It stays up for five seconds after the alert ends, so you don't have to catch it mid-pass. Pro feature.
Four ways in:
When you tap during a live alert the V1 goes quiet immediately and a placeholder zone appears on the map. When the encounter ends, that placeholder is upgraded into a corridor that follows the road you actually drove. Tapping twice can't create duplicates.
A corridor follows the stretch of road you drove past the false, about 30 metres either side of your track, rather than drawing a circle. Zones widen themselves over time as they learn where the signal is actually seen from.
A circle around a point is a poor fit for a roadside false — too big in one direction, too small in the other. So V1Journey records the path you took while the alert was live and buffers it: roughly 30 metres each side, extended about 100 metres past each end. Single-point detections fall back to a circle.
Zones then learn. If the same signal turns up slightly off the corridor — seen from the far side of a median, say — the zone widens to include it, up to a hard cap. Same for the approach: if you keep picking the signal up earlier than the zone reaches, it extends. This is why the first pass from a new angle still alerts. Widening is learned from what actually happened, not predicted.
Matching is by frequency as well as position, starting at about ±15 MHz around the original and adapting to what it observes.
The V1 is only muted when every live alert is covered by a zone. One uncovered signal and you hear everything.
Tap "Lockout Zones" in the map stats bar for the full list, or tap a zone on the map for its detail. You can delete zones, but you can't resize or rename them — they adjust themselves.
The list groups zones by most recent trip, then by creation date. Swipe to delete.
A zone's detail view shows its bands, frequency, shape, how many times it's been hit, a mini-map and the reverse-geocoded address, plus a delete button.
There's deliberately no geometry editing. A zone is created, learns its own shape from repeated passes, or gets deleted. Deleting is confirmed, and the V1 alerts normally at that location on future passes afterwards.
Unlimited with Pro. Without Pro you can't create them at all — there's no partial allowance.
Lockout zones are the headline Pro feature and the gate is all-or-nothing. With a subscription or the lifetime purchase, create as many as you like; there's no cap in the app.
Two possibilities: a zone that hasn't been triggered in 60 days is removed automatically, or — if you use more than one device — iCloud sync resolved a conflict in favour of the other device.
Auto-unlearn. Zones that stop being useful shouldn't accumulate forever, so a zone that hasn't matched anything in 60 days is pruned. Note it's 60 days without a trigger, not 60 days since creation — a zone you drive past regularly is never pruned. A zone created somewhere you've never been back to is kept indefinitely.
iCloud conflict. Sync is last-writer-wins across the whole zone list. If two devices both added zones while offline, the one that syncs second wins outright and the other side's additions are lost. This is the known trade-off in 1.0.
Yes for Pro subscribers, through your own iCloud account, provided you're signed in to iCloud on both devices. The copy on each phone is always the authoritative one; iCloud is a mirror on top of it.
Your zones live on your phone first. That local copy is what the app actually reads, for every customer, subscribed or not. iCloud is an additional mirror that switches on with Pro.
Turning sync on merges what's on the phone with what's in iCloud, so nothing is lost when you upgrade. After that, changes propagate between devices signed in to the same Apple Account.
Conflict handling in 1.0 is last-writer-wins on the whole list. If two devices both add zones while offline, the second one to sync overwrites. In normal one-device-at-a-time use you'll never see this.
Dashed gray means the zone exists but isn't suppressing anything, because Pro isn't currently active. Solid orange means it's working. Resubscribe and they go back to orange with nothing lost.
The map deliberately never promises protection it isn't delivering, so an inactive zone is drawn differently rather than hidden or left looking normal.
Everything about the zone is intact — you can still see it, open it, and delete it. The moment Pro is active again, every zone works exactly as before.
If your zones went gray unexpectedly and you believe your subscription is current, try Settings → Restore Purchases. See I paid for Pro but the app says I'm on the free tier.
They stay. Every zone remains viewable and deletable, and starts working again the moment you resubscribe. Nothing is deleted.
Cancelling stops the zones from suppressing alerts — it doesn't touch the zones themselves. They're drawn dashed gray on the map to show they're inactive, and they're all still in the Lockout Zones list.
The same is true of your saved alerts and alert history: the local copies are untouched. What stops is the iCloud mirroring of them, and the suppression behavior itself.
If your subscription lapses mid-drive, the app handles it cleanly — no stale mute is left hanging.
Neither. Apple's MapKit doesn't expose posted speed limits or lane-guidance arrows to third-party apps, and the V1 doesn't supply them. We'd rather leave a feature out than fake it.
This is a platform limitation, not an oversight. Apple Maps itself has both, because Apple uses data it doesn't publish through MapKit. Every third-party navigation app built on MapKit is in the same position.
The app does show your current speed from GPS, on the map's status strip and recorded with each alert encounter. That's your speed, not the posted limit.
Not the bare phrase. Apple's handoff to a default third-party navigation app is available in the EU and Japan only, not the US. You can record your own phrase in the Shortcuts app to get the same thing.
V1Journey ships five App Shortcuts. Apple requires the app name in each phrase:
To get a short phrase like "take me home," open the Shortcuts app, build a shortcut on V1Journey's Navigate action with your home address, and name it whatever you want to say. Siri will then accept your phrase.
Navigating this way starts guidance on the fastest route immediately, with no route-choice step.
Yes. Guidance, spoken alerts, lockout suppression and corridor recording all continue with the app backgrounded or the screen locked, with a Live Activity on the Lock Screen and in the Dynamic Island.
The parts that matter while driving are wired to run independently of whether the app's screen is visible, so locking the phone or switching to music doesn't interrupt anything. Spoken guidance and alerts keep playing.
The Live Activity card shows turn guidance, a V1 threat readout, or an idle "watching" state, and it's present whenever you're navigating or the V1 is connected. It also appears on the CarPlay Dashboard.
One important caveat: this depends on granting Always location access. The app asks for that upgrade at the moment your V1 first connects, not during onboarding. If you granted only "While Using," see Low-speed muting (or lockouts) stopped working.
Alert display, muting and lockout matching are entirely local and work with no signal at all. Route calculation, search and live traffic need a connection.
Everything between your detector and your phone is local: the alerts, all the muting logic, lockout matching and zone creation. None of it touches the network, and no alert data ever leaves your phone.
Needs a connection: destination search, geocoding, calculating or recalculating a route, and traffic-aware ETAs. Addresses shown on zone and encounter rows fall back to a placeholder when they can't be looked up.
There are no offline maps in 1.0. If you're planning a route through a dead zone, calculate it before you lose signal.
Full navigation plus the V1 layer: alerts on the car display, muting, locking out a false, and a live map card on the CarPlay Dashboard.
The main screen is the map with zoom, recenter and audio-mode buttons, a search button and a V1 button that opens the full alert list.
Alerts arrive in one of two styles, your choice in Settings:
There's also a CarPlay Dashboard card with a live map.
By default the top bar and map buttons auto-hide for a cleaner map. That costs an extra tap to reach the V1 controls while driving — Settings explains the trade-off and lets you turn it off.
Apple doesn't deliver touch events to the area of the CarPlay screen where an app draws its map. Anything you can tap on CarPlay has to be a CarPlay template control, not something we've drawn.
Apple's rule is explicit: the base view is for drawing a map, and the app receives no tap or drag events there. So nothing V1Journey paints on the CarPlay map can be pressed — no custom buttons, no rows, no swipe-to-dismiss.
That's why alerts appear either as a CarPlay banner or as a CarPlay list: those are template controls, and taps on them do reach the app. A third app-drawn presentation was tried and removed for exactly this reason.
The same limit is why End Route can't live on the ETA bar — CarPlay draws that bar itself and delivers no taps from it.
Navigation, your V1 connection and live alerts are free, always. Pro adds the layer that decides what's worth hearing: lockout zones, speed-aware silencing, auto-mute, auto-snooze, K-band filtering, suppressed-alert history, iCloud sync and a few display extras.
Free, permanently:
Gating any part of the alert display path was considered and rejected. If your detector sees it, you see it, subscription or not.
Pro:
Tap Settings → Restore Purchases. If that says nothing was found, the purchase is almost always on a different Apple Account than the one currently signed in.
Restore Purchases is always available, whether or not you're currently subscribed, and it's the right first step.
The usual causes, in order:
If none of that works, send a bug report from Settings → Report a Problem and include the Apple Account email used for the purchase.
Both go through Apple, not through us. Cancel at Settings → Manage Subscription in the app (or iOS Settings → your name → Subscriptions). Request a refund at reportaproblem.apple.com.
Apple handles all billing for App Store purchases. We never see your payment details, can't cancel a subscription on your behalf, and can't issue a refund — Apple makes that decision.
To cancel: open V1Journey → Settings → Manage Subscription. That's a direct link to Apple's subscription management. You keep Pro until the end of the period you've already paid for.
To request a refund: go to reportaproblem.apple.com, sign in with the Apple Account that made the purchase, and select the purchase.
Cancelling doesn't delete anything — see What happens to my lockout zones if I cancel Pro?.
Usually a connectivity problem — the paywall needs to reach the App Store to show prices. Tap Try Again on a good connection. If it persists for everyone, it's a store configuration problem on our side.
Two different messages, two different causes:
The rest of the app is unaffected either way. Navigation and alerts keep working.
Pro controls are hidden on CarPlay rather than shown behind a paywall, because Apple doesn't allow a purchase screen on a car display. Subscribe on your phone and they appear.
Everything Pro-related on the head unit — locking out an alert from the banner or the list, the signal meter styles — simply isn't drawn without a subscription, rather than being shown and then blocked.
Once Pro is active on your phone, the controls appear on CarPlay with no extra step.
There's no account and no server of ours. The only thing that ever leaves your phone toward us is a bug report you compose yourself — and you see the whole thing before it sends and can delete any line.
There is nothing to sign up for. No analytics SDK, no advertising SDK, no tracking.
What does leave the device, and where it goes:
Coordinates, destination names, addresses, saved places and your lockout zones are deliberately excluded from bug reports.
The privacy policy is at v1journey.com/privacy.
Settings → Report a Problem opens an email with a diagnostics block already filled in. It's settings and counts only — no coordinates, no zone contents, no alert history — and you can edit or delete any of it before sending.
The diagnostics block contains: the date, app version, your V1's model and firmware, how many V1 setup advisories are active, whether CarPlay is connected, your GPS speed and fix age, and the current state of each muting feature (Savvy, Auto-Mute, Auto-Snooze, the K filter window, Mute by Default), plus the number of lockout zones you have and your CarPlay alert style.
It deliberately contains no locations, no zone contents and no alert history.
It's put in the message body rather than attached as a file, specifically so you read it before it goes anywhere.
It composes offline. If your phone has no mail account set up, the app hands the draft to whatever app owns mail; if there's no mail app at all, it copies the whole thing to the clipboard along with the address.
Alert history runs 30 days, with full trip detail for the last 50 trips. Saved Alerts are individual encounters you choose to keep permanently, with time, location, band, frequency and your speed.
Two lists that between them cover every encounter:
Saved Alerts are separate and kept indefinitely. Save one from the alert list when you want a durable record — they store the exact time, location, band, frequency and speed, which some people keep as evidence of what they were actually doing when an alert came in. Saving works on any tier; syncing them through iCloud is Pro.
Lifetime counters are separate from the 50-trip detail cap and aren't affected by it.
Two separate doors in Settings: Request a Feature goes to a public board where others can vote on it, and Report a Problem opens an email with diagnostics attached.
They're kept apart on purpose, because they want different handling. A feature request benefits from being public and votable — the fifth person to ask for something adds a vote instead of a fifth email. A bug report benefits from being private, carrying diagnostics, and supporting a back-and-forth.
The feature board is public: your request text is visible to other users for voting, and you can optionally include an email address. If you'd rather nothing be public, send it as a problem report instead.
Three doors, split by what you have to say — not by how you feel about the app.
The in-app report composes offline, so you can write it from a canyon with no signal. It includes a plain-text diagnostics block — connection state, firmware, which mute rules were active, whether CarPlay was connected — because that's usually the difference between a report we can act on and one we can't. You see the whole thing before it sends and can delete any line.
Deliberately excluded: coordinates, destination names, addresses, saved places, and the lockout zones themselves. The count of your zones is useful. Where they are is your business.
Votable and deduplicating, so the fifth person to ask for something adds a vote instead of a fifth message.
There's deliberately no happiness gate. The app never routes you toward or away from the App Store based on how you feel about it.
